Travel
Three days on the islands: a slow guide
Take the early ferry, leave the car at home and let the islands set the pace. On the first day, walk the cliff path from the harbour to the old signal station, where the view reaches all the way to the mainland.
The path is well marked and takes about three hours there and back, with a stop at the small chapel halfway, where the door is always open and a visitors' book goes back more than sixty years.
On the second day, hire a bicycle and follow the lanes between the stone walls to the white beaches of the south. Bring a picnic: there are few shops, and that is the point.
The water is cold even in late summer, but the sheltered bay below the lighthouse is warm enough for a quick swim on a still afternoon. Seals often watch from the rocks at the far end.
In the evening, the island's only inn serves whatever the boats brought in that morning, with bread from the bakery next door. Book a table; there are only nine of them.
On the last morning, visit the fish market as the boats come in, then sit in the sun with a coffee and watch the ferry you will reluctantly catch.
The path is well marked and takes about three hours there and back, with a stop at the small chapel halfway, where the door is always open and a visitors' book goes back more than sixty years.
On the second day, hire a bicycle and follow the lanes between the stone walls to the white beaches of the south. Bring a picnic: there are few shops, and that is the point.
The water is cold even in late summer, but the sheltered bay below the lighthouse is warm enough for a quick swim on a still afternoon. Seals often watch from the rocks at the far end.
In the evening, the island's only inn serves whatever the boats brought in that morning, with bread from the bakery next door. Book a table; there are only nine of them.
On the last morning, visit the fish market as the boats come in, then sit in the sun with a coffee and watch the ferry you will reluctantly catch.
